Beginning Year 2: The Maritimes

Year 2 begins with a hop across Quebec on hwy 40,

Eastbound -Yes, there are some good roads in Quebec.

 

to Quebec City, crossing to Hwy 20

 

A beautiful bridge across the St. Lawrence River

 and into New Brunswick and Nova Scotia to Newfoundland. We left Montreal planning to get as far as Edmunston, but made it only to the Walmart in Riviere du Loup before we decided to call it a day. We rounded a corner and saw one Class A RV in the lot, so we figured it was OK to stay there. As the full parking lot came into view, there were about 17 other RV’s of various sizes parked for the night. 

Walmart - some of the 21 RV's

Our spot!

By the time we called it a night, there were 21 RV’s parked in the lot. We even got good wifi as a walmart guest right near the edge of the lot!

The last section of the Quebec highway is under massive construction as they build a divided highway. Luckily, since we were travelling midweek, it was not a problem for us.

The New Brunswick highway was as good as we remembered from our trip to PEI a few years ago! The moose fences line long sections of the highway. We stopped at longest covered bridge in Heartland, 

Heartland Covered Bridge- we didn't try it with the trailer

 

and at the Covered Bridge Potato Chip factory.

Outstanding Chips (or crisps)

 

They were so good we bought a couple of bags. 

That night, we found another Walmart in Fredericton. There are actually two, but the first is in the middle of the city, on Regent St., on the south side of the river and in a busy mall. We headed over the bridge to the second, holding our breath. But it is in a fairly new area, with a huge parking lot, and we were given the OK to stay. There were only 3 or 4 of us and it was really quiet. Unfortunately though, we were too far away to use the wifi. 

Fredericton's Walmart on Two Nations Crossing

 On our drive from Fredericton to Moncton, I saw a moose standing by the fence in the CFB Gagetown area. We had arrange to meet fellow Airstreamers, that we had met in Ottawa, at Campers City RV Resort in Moncton. It was close to the city, but was rather expensive. The campground is a large, grassy field, and sites are narrow, so RV’s are really close together. The washrooms by the pool were very clean, but not very large. In the other washroom, the showers were 25 cents for 5 minutes. We didn’t get wifi as it was $6.00 per day, and our friends couldn’t get on. However, we spent several hours talking. They had just spent a month in Newfoundland and she wrote excellent notes, and of course, that is our destination. John got info on roads and driving, I got hints on places to see, campground 

recommendations and where to see the best icebergs.

 

I had been telling John about the lupins growing all along the roadside and in the ditches in the Maritimes. They were out in all their beauty. 

The lupins were beautiful

Many grew wild along the side of the road

There were sometimes just a few, and sometimes fields between the lanes of the divided highway and beside it.

Our next stop was a few days in Halifax. We chose to stay at an RV Park on the Bedford side of Halifax, Woodland RV Park. Folks were really friendly and helpful. Sites were set in a wooded area with trees in between. The washroom was breezy as the gables were open to the outside, which was fine in the hot weather we had, but would be a concern if it were cooler.

We spent a couple of days walking around Halifax. We drove in, and parked by the Children’s Hospital. The first day we walked along the waterfront. At the west end is a farmers’ market. There were only a few booths open, but one had delicious fresh lobster rolls, another had excellent lattes and a third had gelato- pina colada and ginger vanilla. Yum! 

Along the harbour there is a boardwalk

At the SE end, just before the entrance to the Harbourwalk -"The Emigrant"

from the Cunard docks and Farmers’ market to the Naval docks. It is beautiful, with interpretive panels along the way describing the points of interest and historical events. We walked and walked, rested and watched the activity in the harbour,

Lighthouse on St George's Island

 In 1755 Acadians were imprisoned on St. George's Island

A Unique tour boat- the Theodore Too

A ship from the naval yard, NW of the Harbourwalk

then walked some more.

There are several ships. We toured the HMCS Sackville, a Corvette- the ship used to escort convoys during the Battle of the Atlantic. It is the last of the 122 built in Canada during WWII. 

HMCS Sackville, Corvette #122

 

But we were too late to tour the frigate, Halifax, that day.

In one area, there are a group of little kiosks selling souvenirs or various types of food, even beaver tails. We had excellent fish and chips from The Battered Fish.

Kiosks seen from the river.

 

We passed the Dartmouth ferry docks and decided to take a ride. We could get a transfer, ride over, and return on the same boat. We just had to get off, go through the gate and get back on. Since it was really hot, this was a nice breezy break from walking.

Dartmouth from the ferry

Halifax from the ferry

We still had to walk back to where we had parked the car – several blocks up the hill

Looking up to the Clock Tower

a street with lots of outdoor patios and pubs

and many blocks back to the Public Gardens, 

Public Gardens, a great spot to relax before the drive back to Bedford

and Victoria Gardens area.

The next day was Canada Day. Everybody was in red and white, except us. I chose turquoise, so John could find me, and he had on bright yellow. It wasn’t too patriotic, but made locating each other much easier. We spent the morning and early afternoon at the citadel.

Practising for the ceremony

The Parade Ground on Canada Day

We watched the parade and the ceremonies from the ramparts. We walked down to the waterfront and back to the Battered Fish. John added delicious seafood chowder to his lunch. We toured the frigate, Halifax.

 

The frigate, Halifax

 

John's guns have become larger!

It was fascinating. There were lots of navy personnel with interesting information, and to answer questions. 

The waterfront was crowded with red and white, so it was interesting people watching. It was particularly fun watching the children play in the splash pad.

It was really hot, and tthe kids had a wonderful time

It was a bit foggy and overcast as we headed east. However, it was not long before we were into another hot day. Thank goodness for air conditioning in the car. We drove over the Canso Causeway,

The end of the Causeway

 

and took the south route along the Bras D’Or Lakes shoreline to Louisbourg. Roads were generally good, but there were some rough patches. As we drove towards Louisbourg, we saw what looked like a mountain ahead. It was FOG. The temperature dropped from 25 degrees C to 15 degrees in a couple of kilometers. We pulled into the Riverdale RV Park, unhitched, and headed to the Lobster Kettle for something to eat. The RV park is grass in the middle, and level gravel pads on the edge. We backed in at the end, with a brook behind and bushes to the side – lovely site, but bad choice.

lots of black flies- larger than Ontario black flies, but just as nasty!

There were lots of very annoying black flies. The washrooms were the nicest we have seen, rivalling those at Picacho Peak in Arizona. But, make sure you have gas and groceries before you get to Louisbourg. There are no gas stations in town and only 2 small convenience stores.

 

Fortress Louisbourg is amazing. It is not a fort, but a fortified town, much of it restored to the year 1744. There are people throughout the town dressed and in character. You meet soldiers of all ranks, sailors, servants, serving waitresses in the restaurants, bakers, children, 

The girls off for a game of hide and seek

 

and a variety of citizens.

We drove to the Visitors’ Centre, and a large shuttle bus took us to the fortress. The first home is outside the walls. Many of those who worked in the fortress, fishermen or those who supplied food, lived in homes around the outside.

The first house was kind of a tavern for fishermen and a home

Inside- one large room and a bedroom

 

The sentry at the gate challenges those who wish to enter. 

2 soldiers on the drawbridge

There are 2 information centres, which are hotspots, inside the fortress. On their website there is an app you can download for your smart phone. One section takes you on a walk of the restored sections of the town, with interesting information about buildings and the people. Another one takes you through the unrestored section through the remains of the original 18^th century town.

Your first view of the town, after entering the gates

Houses are built in a square, with back yards in the centre

one street- the merchant's restaurant is the first building

3 different types of construction- stone, wood and a type of plaster and wood

We had lunch in the smaller of the two restaurants. We got one utensil- a large spoon, and a napkin to tie around our necks to keep our clothes clean. John had very good fish soup and soldiers’ bread with beer. I had French toast, homemade bread with cinnamon on top, with hot rum punch – hot water, 1 oz of rum, brown sugar and lime juice.

They have done an outstanding job restoring the homes, even the governor’s quarters,

The Governor's quarters: with a chapel, dining and meeting rooms, his soldiers quarters and his private quarters

Governor's bedroom

the shops, the storage facilities,

Storage building

 

and bakery and forge. One of the buildings is an exhibit illustrating the various types of construction. Some are set up with the furniture that would have been in the home. Others were displays of paintings depicting life in and around the fortress and its history, and artifacts from owners of various homes.

We watched the punishment of a women who “stole for her children”,

Her charges are read, and insults are hurled at her by the citizens, as she pleads her case

and the firing of the Cannon (supposedly at sunset).

 

Readying the cannon

Then we drove to Kennington Cove where Wolfe landed in 1745 for a siege on the fort.

Kennington Cove

Each day we watched the progress of the first hurricane of the year, Arthur, as it progressed up the east coast, wondering how it would affect our journey. We left Louisbourg in, you guessed it, FOG,

John wanted to take one more walk along the original battlements

 

and drove to Sydney, in the warm sun. We got notices that our ferry departure had been moved up an hour, then a second to say it had been moved up again. This meant our 11:45pm ferry, was now leaving at 9:45pm. They wanted to get as many crossings as possible before Arthur ‘hit’.

A few of hours later, watching our ferry dock in N.Sydney.

 

Actually, they began to load at 8pm and we were away by 9 (9:30 in Newfoundland). We had booked a cabin as it was originally an overnight ride. We got a couple of hours sleep. But, we got in at 3am, and were off by 3:30am in Port au Basques, in the pitch black. We had been warned about the moose on the road, who like to just wander in front of the cars at night- and no moose fences on the way to Doyles -  and about the winds at Wreckhouse. So we bedded down in our trailer in the Visitors’ Centre parking lot until morning.

At the Visitors' Centre in Channel-Port au Basque

Now we are in Newfoundland...

Our First Year

As we look back on Year One “Living our Dream”, we shout loud and clear, “This is a fabulous Lifestyle!” We have thoroughly enjoyed our new home and our travels through sun and rain, fog and clear blue skies, warm – even hot- days and cool to cold nights. We have travelled from hills to Prairies, from rocky shores and beaches to mountains and desert.

What we have learned:

·       People everywhere are wonderful

·       Water is the defining factor of RVing

·       Always keep half a tank of fresh water

·       Look for State/Provincial/County campgrounds and ask about potable water

·       Turn water off at outside tap when you go out for a day, or if temperature is going to be below freezing at night

·       You really do need 3-seasons clothing, and layers

·       Before travelling check that all cupboards are securely closed

·       Everything has a place, and has to be returned to it

·       We don’t need 6 sauces for meats

·       In Arizona and California during  January and February, even if it is 80 degrees during the day, have a jacket ready when the sun goes down and the temperature plummets quickly

·       It is OK to walk around the French Quarter in New Orleans with any beverage - as long as it is NOT in a glass container.

·       Spring Break in the south US lasts for 6 weeks between California and Florida, and coastal campsites are hard to find

·       There are not many rest stops on some US Freeways, and no restaurants or gas stations

·       You can boondock at Flying J and Pilot gas stations, Casinos and most Walmarts [just check]

·       With iPad and internet access to libraries, we don’t need too many real books

·       Well-behaved children are great fun to watch in a campground

·       Shop at Total Wines where possible for all your alcohol, from all wines to craft beers to liquors and liqueurs.

What We Miss:

·       Fresh-squeezed orange juice from Longo’s and Galati

·       Our specialty foods from Galati’s and McEwan

What We Regret:

·       NOTHING!

Back in Canada

The last few weeks have been filled with catching up with friends and family. We spent some time at Bronte Provincial Park in the west end of Toronto.We made doctors’ and dentists’ appointments, got back into the routine of going to the gym and getting an organized work-out, and visited our nephew, his wife and darling daughter, Abby. She was sitting and bouncing in her jumper the last time we saw her. Now, she is running around the house with a mischievous glint in her eye, when she is not sitting reading her books! 

Then Run-Around-Sue had to have her yearly check-up, so we headed for London and spent a wonderful few days with my brother and sister-in-law in London. The Spring up here has been cool. Folks are delighted there is no more snow, but we had to get out the long-sleeves and sweaters once again.

Then it was back to Toronto to the East side of the City, at Glen Rouge. 

Glen Rouge, backing right onto the river

We had checked this park when we first arrived and there were trees down, and broken branches everywhere.

However, when we arrived, the campground was in great shape. The Park Elves had been hard at work, cleaning up. We had a beautiful site backing onto the Rouge River. Visiting family and friends in the East side of the city, and the first of many appointments, occupied most of our time. 

Montreal came next. We left the RV there for a couple of days as we went off to Ottawa for a cousin’s wedding. This was a wonderful occasion, held on a very windy, cool day at the Britannia Yacht Club. The happy couple took off for Hawaii, and we headed back for some time with John’s Mum in Montreal.

Thousand Islands Parkway east of Gananoque- not our style!

On the way back to Toronto, we spent a few days at Victoria Park Campground in Cobourg.

A beautiful site, but a bit cool!

 

It is right downtown, by the marina along the beach. We chose to be in the middle part of the Campground, as there was a cool breeze off the lake most of the time. This whole park is grass, so not all sites are level. We had a lovely large site right on the corner, near the gate, but needed 50ft of hose to reach the water tap. Washrooms are clean and easily accessible from all sites. We walked around the downtown, found a super new Fish and Chip restaurant, and our favourite, Human Bean coffee shop. We ate bread, breakfast and treats from the wonderful bakery by the Marina, and shopped at the Saturday market. We had to get a new space heater for the living room area of the RV. We found a good one at Home Hardware, the only store which hadn’t put all heaters away, and had a decent selection. 

We returned to Glen Rouge for final eye and doctors’ appointments, and more visits with friends and family while we wait for our extended OHIP cards to come. 

Across from the first site, but much larger, and on a corner

The view of the park from our doorstep

Once they arrive, we will be able to avoid the 153 day mandatory stay in Ontario for 2 years. This gives us more flexibility to travel out of the Province for longer periods of time.

Our second year begins with a trip to Newfoundland.  We sail from Sydney on July 4, with a short stop in Montreal first, then several days wending our way east, and exploring Louisbourg. 

More to come...